Saturday 9 June 2012

La Belle France

I am not long back from a fascinating trip to France. I felt as if I had been washed in perfumed soapflakes and hung out to dry in the fresh, fragrant air and warm sunshine. I billowed, an urge to spread out and fly over the lush fields.  I was seeing the verdent landscape through much cleaner spectacles, not the usual rose-colored lens, so that everything sparkled and shone. I don't think I have ever seen so many shades of green in one glance; one could spend a month mixing blues and greens and still not come up with such a variety. I was seeing 'Spring' for the first time.

 I stayed in a gite in a tiny hamlet called Preniac, near the beautiful hilltop medieval village of Montcuq which itself is about 25km southwest of the historic town of Cahors on the River Lot. The first week was a course with the textile artist Ruth Isset, mainly working with colour, learning how to dye using various methods, then layering and sewing our multi-hued pieces of material. We worked hard from early morning until just before dinnertime, spurred on by the knowledge that we were due for another culinary delight that night. Wine flowed freely, too, with appreciative slurps and gulps. I felt ashamed of another of my 'one' weaknesses (in the words of the Post Mistress of Lark Rise to Candleford)....my rejection of red wine due to chronic migraine problems and my guilty addiction to Coca Cola (well, at least Diet Coke)....

Studio Preniac

Our enthusiastic group


Dyed with a 'y'
 We were not blessed with the best of weather but I had a wonderful week, made some lasting new friendships and came home several kilos heavier due to our hosts' (Billy and Liz) gourmet cooking. It was without doubt the most delicious food I have ever eaten. I stayed on in one of their cosy cottages for a few more days to explore the area.

My home

At last the sun came out, the top of my Megane convertible was lowered and I sped through the country lanes feeling on top of the world, breathing in the scents of the wildflowers, bedazzled by the glare of a million scarlet poppies and assailed by the calls of thousands of birds. It was a magical experience.











Sarlat
I ventured up into the Dordogne area, too, delighting in the sheer beauty of the river valleys and the perfection with which these ancient French towns and cities have been preserved.

Market Day in Montcuq
Sarlat was unforgettable - a town of dark, shadowy alleyways and arches, squares lined with ancient stone and wooden-clad houses, colourful shops selling local produce - pate de foie gras, ceps mushrooms, oils, truffles and a huge array of preserves and compotes. A town to explore and be transported back 800 years or so.  LaRoque-Gagiac and Lauzarte are also places I would recommend, likewise Cirque Lapopie and Domme - in fact every village and town is worth a serious visit with several camera memory cards.      
                                                                                       




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